Un giorno a Serralunga d’Alba by B.S.

Schermata 2013-12-09 a 21.57.20

Eccovi un estratto del post scritto da Bruce Sanderson, giornalista responsabile del Piemonte per la testata Wine Spectator:

 

… Just a few miles away, Rivetto‘s perch atop a ridge to the east of Serralunga offers a stunning view of the castle. The property straddles the border between Serralunga and Sinio, which lies just outside the Barolo zone.

Enrico Rivetto, 35, the fourth generation to run the estate, freely admitted, “I have more ideas than money.” For example, he hopes to label his Nebbiolo from Sinio as Barolo one day, but barring any changes to the boundaries of the Barolo zone, he’ll have to be satisfied with his holdings in Serralunga: Briccolina, Manocino, Serra and San Bernardo.

His family has been in the wine business since 1902, occupying its current location since 1932. There are 37 acres of vineyards farmed organically and equally as many acres of hazelnuts.

Rivetto likes to harvest in three passes, first cutting the tips of the Nebbiolo clusters, then picking the clusters furthest from the trunk and finally the rest of the grapes. The crop is crushed and fed into tanks by gravity.

Fermentation is in stainless steel with indigenous yeast, with the exception of the Briccolina. The Barolo consists of Nebbiolo from Manocino, Serra and San Bernardo. It ages for 30 months in large Slavonian oak casks and a further 10 months in bottle. The 2010 was slightly austere, showing tobacco, cherry, plum and briar notes. Its tannins were assertive, but the savory finish found a nice balance.

The Barolo Leon Riserva is a selection from the casks of Barolo that Rivetti feels is capable of extended aging. The lots destined for the Leon Riserva see an additional 10 months respectively in both cask and bottle before release. We tasted the 2008, rich with cherry, tobacco, wet earth and iron flavors that stayed fresh if a bit dry on the finish.

Fermentation for the Barolo Briccolina takes place in conical wood vats called “tini,” before aging in wood for three years and a further 16 months in bottle. The 2010 evoked beautiful aromas of flowers, cherry, strawberry and tobacco matched to an elegant, refined and harmonious frame.

Rivetto has barriques for his Barbera and is not averse to using them for Nebbiolo, but there is no recipe here. The Barbera d’Alba Zio Nando, named after his great uncle Ferdinando, who planted the grapes in 1944, sees 45 percent French oak barriques and 55 percent Slavonian oak casks. The 2011, to be released next spring, delivered rich plum fruit on a dense, concentrated structure.

Rivetto also makes a fresh, floral-, lime- and spice-scented Langhe Nascetta, a local variety that is currently undergoing a revival in the region.