It was with disappointment that I read in the magazine Vigne Vini that the EU regulatory project for organic wine, that should have lowered the limits on sulfur in wine, is being drawn out. A majority of countries in Northern Europe, including France and Portugal, rejected the proposal put forth in Brussels to limit the presence of sulfites to 100 mg/l for red wine and 150 mg/l for white and rosè. The majority are instead in support of raising the limit as high as 120 mg/l for red and 170 for white and rosè, levels not much lower that those allowed for conventional wines: 150 and 200.
My wines, as with those of many wine cultivators who strive for quality, contain a level of sulfites far lower than that required by law: we are around 50 mg/l for reds. I believe that a combination of technology and will-power can bring even the large-scale producers to offer commercial wines with low sulfite levels. Fontanafredda is a large producer that has demonstrated sensitivity to the problem, and it is only through the help of producers with considerable financial capacity that experimentation and research can move forward, arriving at the zero-sulfur ideal for all, without contraindications.
I don’t like the name “organic wine”, and in fact believe that the words biological, ecological and organic are widely abused and often used for political marketing. If you had the choice between two wines of equal price, one with a low sulfur content, would you prefer the one with low so2 or would you tend to be indifferent?