After a spring rich in visits from male journalists, it was with pleasure that a few days ago I had occasion to receive the elegant American journalist Kerin O’Keefe. The exceptionally clear late-October day provided our guest with a welcome worthy of our magnificent hills. After chatting about NFL football and about basketball (both Kerin and I are anti-Lakers), we concentrated our attention on wine. When we arrived in the wine cellar, I took the occasion to get an opinion on the just-fermented white Nebbiolo spumante. Very intense aromas and pronounced acidity bode well for the future. In the tasting room we appreciated my selection of currently available Nebbiolo wines. According to Ms O’Keefe, the best was the Barolo Riserva 2004, which is the most complete of the selection.