“Human wines” or stink?

images2The other evening while I was surfing the web, I was struck by a post by Fiorenzo Sartore on intravino, which talks about the magnificent stink of wine. On the same day, in celebration of my extraordinary grandmother’s 92nd birthday, we opened a bottle of the 1964, my father’s first vintage. This combination of events led me to some reflection. Certainly, as soon as the bottle was uncorked, it did not offer me a complex of pleasing aromas; in fact I would say it smelled musty. After four or five hours, however, the discourse changed and the perfumes became more defined and moving. I am not talking about recognizing this fruit or that flower, but rather the fact that I wanted to inhale every last drop and the scents filled my lungs with joy. The wine was forty six years old, and it is normal that it would stink when just uncorked. But a wine of two or three years, stay calm, but for me this would be unacceptable. I believe that the phenomenon of natural wines, organic, biodynamic, etc. (I recommended reading the post by Gianluca Mazzella on this typology of wine) is the natural reaction to the excessive use of technology in the 1990s, ill-advised uses of wood, forced aroma, tannin curing, and “fake organic”. I understand that it is about the desire to return to the past, to tradition (the right one, however), but I fail to comprehend the return to stink. Maybe there is a desire to drink more human wines, perhaps with some imperfections, with territorial characteristics that are strong and unique. I would substitute the word “stink” with “odour”, perhaps tied to the brettanomyces, which inevitably forms part of the old world. Concerning this I refer you to a post written some time ago.

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It stands to reason, however, that one can decide to love wine that stinks, a less-than attractive woman, the socialist buildings on the periphery of Cracow instead of the odour of a sewer, that is, there is absolute freedom of choice. I however produce wine that results from the human transformation of nature, and I find it difficult to understand the man who ecstatically enjoys the aroma of a wine that perhaps knows the backside of a donkey.

It is said that for a man to be a real man he needs to stink, but I’d like to see how many women would go to bed with a man who, however great-looking, has not washed in years…