Organic, natural, biodynamic, real, independent, biodiverse, no sulfates, vegan: these are the words trending right now, without really giving meaning to the concepts that have been emptied by the superficiality of the debate. Let me clear up what I think and how I see my wine now as well as in the future:
Let me start with the fact that I keep a good eye on all the natural wine movements – even the more extreme ones. These are all useful contributions to the revolution already at work in the world of wine. This movement was created from a physiological contrast to everything we’ve done poorly in the past and unfortunately are still doing now. For example, the wide use of pesticides and herbicides as well as the addition and use of every technological novelty in the winery to standardize the product, tannins, gum arabic, etc. These naturalist and similar fashion movements serve to take steps towards a healthier agriculture – even for those in organic who don’t believe it and only do it to follow a trend. There is curiosity and there is interest. Some people refuse these wines with bad smells, full of defects. I won’t hide that these products don’t impress me, but they make me curious.
My wines are changing and they are becoming better at a conceptual level. The organic label which I use isn’t just a piece of paper, it’s our creed. The projects in motion will help the company and its people evolve, with our wines representing it all. Since 2009 we’ve taken steps towards more reasonable agricultural practices and a vision of the whole, not the particulars. We’ve created cleaner wines and we will improve in the coming years. However, I don’t want to give up the bounty and beauty. I am convinced that these vineyards cannot give me unpleasant wines and so the bar of the technique and competence needs to be raised more.
The future of research and experimentation is in the use of resistance inducers, abandoning or reducing copper and sulfur, eliminating the use of mechanical means that compact and damage the land. This is the future, trying to create vineyards in equilibrium with surrounding nature because, let’s be clear, the farmer is completely human and therefore he must embed himself into existence without ever withdrawing. Today in the Langhe there is an imbalance leaning towards profit, which turns vineyards into monotone landscapes. Alta Langa is biodiverse, yes. Therefore the work that I am trying to plan is contributing to the creation of a company that generates a profit, but does not succeed with the balance of monoculturalism like the rest. Easy to say, but not to do. However, to tell you the truth, the easy things never interested me.